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Installing Plus Ridge Panels

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You would like to install a new roof on your home or building and you have heard that a metal roof is economical and lasts for years once it is installed. You are a Do-It-Yourselfer and want to undertake this project but need a little help. Discount Direct Metal Roofing has provided this page especially for you, our customers to help you with any questions you may have and to provide professional tips on how to install a metal roof. So let's get started. Standing Seam roofing is difficult to install and should only be done by professionals. Although some of these instructions may apply to Standing Seam, only our Plus Ridge Panel instructions are covered here.

Important note: do not attempt this on a building that you cannot freely walk on because of the pitch, or angle of the roof. If you are not capable of safely working high up have a professional roofing company do the work and save your friends the flowers and visits to the hospital. Never stand on unfastened panels, and use safety gear to prevent eye and hand injuries. How to measure roof pitch.

Click here for diagrams of ridge cap, closure, vents and flashing installation.

First, you will need the proper tools and materials. These may include: Measuring tape A good drill with three different bits: a ¼ inch screw head bit; a 5/16 screw head bit; and a standard Phillip’s bit. A chalk line. A good extension ladder and a step ladder, Metal cutting “Snips” We also highly recommend using a nibbler to cut metal roofing as cuts can be made safely and easily even over ribs. (Click link for information on renting a nibbler for your job).
To decide how much metal roofing and screws you will need, measure the roof from peak to eave and add whatever overhang you want (anywhere from one to two inches is usual). This will give you the length of your panels. Measure along the width of your roof and divide this number by 3'. This will give you the number of panels you will need. Allowances for valleys or hips will progressively change the panel length along the valley or hip allowing the panel to be cut along the angle of valley or hip. Ridges, hips, valleys, Gable ends, and eaves should be measured for length so the proper amount of flashing can be ordered. Trim comes in 10' lengths. We can do a take off of your roof from provided drawings for a minimum fee please call the office for additional information.

It is not necessary or recommended to take off the old shingles before starting to install new roofing(unless you have two roofs already on.) You can “tear off” composite shingles with a pitchfork or a roofing shovel if you have to do so. You will then put down 30 pound tar paper, or roofing felt, as a base for your new roof. If there is only one layer of shingles on the building,we suggest you keep the old roof on and put down what is called “Batten board”. This is 1x4xlength (Never use 1"x2"s or pressure treated) of Yellow Pine boards that are screwed or nailed securely on 24" centers over the old roofing. They should be placed every two feet up starting from the bottom of the roof up. You can then put the new metal roof on over these boards. As an alternative you can fasten the boards with sparse nailing and then use 2" screws to go through the panels, the batten board, and then into the sheathing. This method may produce a stronger bond to the sheathing.

Now you are ready to start putting on your metal roof. Put your Eave Trim edging down; at the eaves, not on the Gables. You can nail this in with 1 ¼ inch roofing nails. Inside Closures can be installed with each panel now or later as described. Valleys should be installed next, and should run from the peak to just over the eave and may extend just past new roofing panels to allow the water to run off without touching the house. Do not nail except on the very outside edges of the valley.

NEVER STAND ON UNFASTENED PANELS!

The bottom of the Panels must be aligned along the eave and square to the gable if possible, gables are often not square with the eave so some misalignment with the gable is possible. Align panels along the eave using a 3-4-5 triangle measurement. The Panels should run from top to bottom and cover without lapping end to end if possible. If there is a hip or valley, run panels starting the first one from the gable working toward the valley or hip. If the run is from gable to gable start on the end most comfortable for you being right or left handed. The valleys or hips must be cut on angle to fit. Use tin snips or a nibbler, but do not cut panels with a saw. Clean any filings (from installing screws) after installing. Panels should be cut so there will be a "trough" of 4" to 6" in the valley for water to run. Universal closure should be used under panels in the valley to help prevent water from flowing between panel and valley. Never use plain flat valley with metal roofing, use only valley with a water ridge in the center. VERY IMPORTANT; The panel side that has a slight extension beyond the edge of the last ridge goes UNDER the adjacent panel. . On the last sheet toward a gable, measure roof edge and cut the panel to fit. If using gable trim you may turn up a 3/4" lip to support the trim and prevent water from running over the panel edge.

Now the metal trim goes on. It will cover the sides (Gable) of the roof at the edge. It will also cover the ridge of the roof (the top peak) as well. Sealant tape or butyl tape should be used between any trim fastened on the flat of panels so the hole in panel will be sealed. The Gable end trim goes on first then the Ridge Cap. Gable trim is fastened in the 3/4" flat with sealant tape between the trim and the panel. Outside Closures should be used under ridge cap. It is also possible to use the ridge for a vent by placing the closure in a "J" Channel at the top of the panel rather than under the ridge lip. These are pieces of foam rubber that come in 3 foot lengths that follow the design of the panel ridges. For eaves you push it up into the openings along the edge (it prevents birds and animals from going up inside the ridges). It has a glue at the bottom and will self seal and stick when put in. Do not screw the bottom of your sheets down if you want to put closures in after the panels are down. Now you will do the ridge. Outside Closures are a foam closure similar to your bottom enclosures, but this will fill in the wide gaps at the top of your sheets. Place these on top of the sheets at the ridge (top of the roof) to fill in the gaps. Take the metal ridge for the panel and screw it onto the ridge with a screw on either side at the point where the high point of a ridge occurs and put it in with a 1/4x 7/8 metal lap screw. Do this every rib on both sides of the ridge. The ends of the Ridge Cap can be cut/trimmed and turned down to close the opening for a finished look. Filings from screw cuttings must also be cleaned off the panels after screws have been applied through the panel to avoid rust marks. Failure to comply with the above procedure relieves Discount Direct Metal Roofing, Inc. of responsibility for any resulting damage to, or deterioration of the finish. This should just about complete your roof. If you have any questions about how to install your roof please call us at Discount Direct 904-696-9700 or e-mail us at ddmr@ddmetal.com.